2014-02-23

Epigraphical Museum: A great museum not worth your time (and money)

The title of the post is not meant as a joke, but as a quick capturing of what you need to know about the Epigraphical Museum. It is a specialized museum, hosting exclusively epigrams, that is inscriptions written on marble and stone from all over ancient Greece. It is the largest museum of its kind in the world, although you wouldn't know it from the size of the building and the exhibition rooms. I guess most of the artifacts are kept in storage rooms. An archaeologist specialized in the study of ancient Greece would probably have a field-day in here, but for the rest 99.99% of the population this is probably not the most exciting place in the world. If you think of checking it out just out of curiosity -it is practically next door to the National Archeological Museum- the 3Euro ticket (reduced tickets: 2€) will probably deter you. Who knows! Maybe, it's even meant to deter you, so as to avoid any unwelcome breaking of inscriptions by careless visitors! Explanatory signs are written in Greek and English, but some larger, informative wall posters are only written in Greek.
 
Entrance of the Epigraphical Museum, 1 Tositsa St., Athens, Greece
Anyway, I did manage to find a handful of things that were of interest: 
  • First, an ancient voting machine, of the kind used by Athenians to count votes on specific proposals put forward by their fellow citizens, or to vote on ostracizing those deemed unwelcome. I think this is a major exhibit, at least from a political point of view, and I'm surprised that it's ended up in this no man's land of a museum. Its rightful place should probably be at one of the 2 major museums (the National Archaeological or the Acropolis).
  • Then, a couple of inscriptions written in the "boustrophedon" type of writing. The word, meaning "like the turn of the ox tail", describes a peculiar type of ancient writing, where the 1st row begins "normally", from left to right, but the 2nd row starts from the right and goes left, with letters also "looking" to the the left. Then, the 3rd row follows the direction of the the 1st and the 4th one the direction of the 2nd, etc... I did come across this type of writing a few years ago,  by cause of a book of modern Greek palindromes, written by my wife, if I may say so [I think I should add a link to the book for the speakers of Greek among you, now that I think of it!] So, these particular epigrams rang close to home.
  • Finally, the museum is interesting from an architectural point of view. Two of the rooms have large -protected- glass windows that look to the front yard, with natural light coming in from all over the place and there's a front yard and a back yard, the latter of which is practically connected to the National Archaeological Museum.
One of the halls of the National Epigraphical Museum in Athens, Greece

But I think, that sums it up pretty well, and most of you will likely find something else to spend your limited time in Athens!
 
The back yard of the National Epigraphical Museum, at 1 Tositsa St., Athens, Greece.

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2014-02-02

Oroscopo restaurant: Simple quality that pleases

Oroscopo

Address – Area: Antinoros 42-44, Kessariani, Athens, 210-72.38.567
Latest Visit: 2014-01-27
Cuisine: Italian / Greek, Pizza
Overall Opinion: Positive
Methods of payment: cash, Visa, MasterCard, Diners, AmericanExpress
Working hours: 12:00 – 01:30
Website: www.oroscopo.gr

Presentation / Ambience: Initially a classic Greek-style pizzeria that has expanded its menu in recent years and offers extremely good value for money. During spring / summer you may get an outdoor table facing the small square next to Divani Caravel Hotel. Indoors, a simple, square hall with about 20 tables (non-smoking) and another 7  tables at the patio upstairs. Thanks to the big glass façade they all have view to the square outside. Very popular with people staying in nearby hotels (often for business) and with locals (I've been here on business lunches quite a few times). Simple, very well-cooked food. Somewhat austere, neutral, but also very clean, surroundings. It has something of the atmosphere of a Greek diner in the US. If I had to sum it all up in one phrase I'd say that it's a place which impresses with its simplicity and honesty. It's for places like this one that I continue writing this blog even when my mind is some place else...



Food / Drinks: I have dined here several times in the past 5 years and always left with good impressions. You may find pizzas, home-made pasta with a recently (2014) expanded menu of offerings, Greek / Italian appetizers (hot and cold), a Greek-type burger that is tasty, fresh and very filling, salads, risotto and, when available, fresh fish. The ravioli with porcini mushrooms and truffle paste we recently tried (a new dish) had a really exquisite taste while the cornetti filled with beef ragu and parmesan sauce were tasty and filling too. Among the appetizers we recently tasted we liked both the grilled pleurotus mushrooms and the grilled talagani cheese w/ tomato and pine nuts. If we had to change anything we would have liked some dishes to be a tad warmer but that didn't detract from our overall pleasure. We also liked both deserts (a chocolate tart and a tiramisu) but differed on which one was best!

They have a small selection of reasonably priced Greek wines and 4 "house wines" which are not some anonymous liquid, like in so many other places, but come from a known winery (Lafazanis) and are of specific varietals. The white house wines are Malagouzia and Moschofilero, two of the most popular and versatile Greek wine grapes.

Prices:
-Bread & dips for two, 2 hot appetizers, 2 pasta dishes and 1/2 litre of Malagouzia white wine, cost around 40€ in 2014 (sorry, I don't remember the exact prices). And we were offered leek soup, farewell drink (limoncello or mastich) and deserts, on the house!

Service: Fast, attentive and discreet at the same time. On our last visit we tried a special (a free offer) that they had in order to introduce their new pasta offerings. Not only were we treated with utmost respect but on top we were offered a leek-soup as a starter and a farewell drink and desert, all on the house! That alone says it all. They try to win their customers through their service and not just make a quick buck off of you. It's no accident they've been around since 1981!

Location / Getting there: Practically next-door to Caravel Hotel (at the square right before it) and less than 100 yards from the Athens Hilton.
If you take the Metro, get off at Evangelismos Station. Walk along Vas. Sofias Avenue towards the Hilton and turn right on Vas. Alexandrou St., right before the Hilton. 
Walk along Vas. Alexandrou St. towards Caravel Hotel and turn right on Antinoros St. You will see Oroscopo facing the small square. 


See map of Athens restaurants at the bottom of this page. 


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2014-01-06

Free entrance to Athens Museums and other freebies and good deals


A new year has just started and, the last post notwithstanding, I decided to provide some fresh content to the blog. Since people looking for freebies (you know who you are!) are constantly on the lookout, I thought I'd make their (your) life a bit easier, by bringing this information forward in a separate post. I think students and generally people on a tight budget will find it especially helpful. To be clear, major museums and sites rarely offer free days (read about them below) and these are just suggestions to fill in your time in a meaningful / alternative way without spending money. You may build your cheap vacation to Athens around this post, by visiting museums and other nearby attractions on the day they offer free access. Besides free admissions, there are more "concessions" (lower prices) for various specialized categories of people (young children, senior citizens, holders of membership cards, etc.), which are listed in each museum website in detail. So, here's my free list of freebies:

Free days in Athens museums:

Mondays: Spiral Ramp (exterior) of the Hellenic Motor Museum,  
Tuesdays: Yannis Pappas Studio, Mentis Textile Workshop, Maritime Tradition Park (except for Georgios Averof Battleship), Spiral Ramp (exterior) of the Hellenic Motor Museum, Municipal Gallery of the City of Athens (Dimotiki Pinakothiki),
Wednesdays: Mentis Textile Workshop, Maritime Tradition Park (except for Georgios Averof Battleship), Spiral Ramp (exterior) of the Hellenic Motor Museum, Municipal Gallery of the City of Athens (Dimotiki Pinakothiki),
Thursdays: Benaki Museum (Central Building, Pireos St. Annexe, Benaki Museum of Islamic Art, Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghika Gallery, Mentis Textile Workshop), Maritime Tradition Park (except for Georgios Averof Battleship), Spiral Ramp (exterior) of the Hellenic Motor Museum, Municipal Gallery of the City of Athens (Dimotiki Pinakothiki),
Fridays: Yannis Pappas Studio, Mentis Textile Workshop, Maritime Tradition Park (except for Georgios Averof Battleship), Spiral Ramp (exterior) of the Hellenic Motor Museum, Municipal Gallery of the City of Athens (Dimotiki Pinakothiki),  
Saturdays: Mentis Textile Workshop, Maritime Tradition Park (except for Georgios Averof Battleship), Spiral Ramp (exterior) of the Hellenic Motor Museum, Municipal Gallery of the City of Athens (Dimotiki Pinakothiki),
Sundays: Yannis Pappas Studio, Maritime Tradition Park (except for Georgios Averof Battleship), Spiral Ramp (exterior) of the Hellenic Motor Museum and free screenings in the amphitheatre for museum ticket holders, Municipal Gallery of the City of Athens (Dimotiki Pinakothiki), National Historical Museum

-On the first Sunday of the month from November to March (included) there is free entrance to the National Archaeological Museum. The National Archaeological Museum also offers free entrance on March 6, April 18, May 18, June 5, last weekend of September and 28 October.

-Also, don't forget that you have free access to the upper side of Metro Stations, some of which host interesting archaeological exhibits (Syntagma, Panepistimio, Acropolis, Monastiraki stations) and that you can find some "minor" archaeological sites with open access, scattered around Athens.

Major archaeological sites offer free entrance on the following days:
Acropolis of Athens (including North and South slope of the Acropolis), Ancient Agora museum and site, Kerameikos Museum and site, Hadrian's Library, Olympieio (a.k.a. Temple of Olympian Zeus), Roman Agora of Athens: March 6, April 18, May 18, June 5, September 27 and the last weekend of September

If you are interested in a specific museum read below for the main groups of people given free admission to each museum and see the "Athens Museums" tab for more information on each one.


Main groups of people given free admission to museums:
Acropolis Museum
All persons under 18 years old from EU countries (with ID)
Children under 5 years old from non-EU countries
All visitors with disabilities and 1 person accompanying them.

Byzantine & Christian Museum:
All persons under 18 years old.

Cycladic Art Museum:
All persons under 18 years old.
All visitors with disabilities and 1 person accompanying them.

Goulandris Natural History Museum
Visitors with disabilities
All children up to 5 years old.

Herakleidon Museum
Children up to 12 years old
 
Maritime Tradition Park (Faliro), except for Georgios Averof Battleship
All children under 6. 
All persons over 65.

Municipal Gallery of Athens
Everybody (free entrance)

National Archaeological Museum
Visitors under 18 years old (by showing their I.D. or Passport)
Students from E.U. countries (by showing their University Card)
Escorts of blind people and escorts of persons with mobility difficulties

National Epigraphical Museum
Visitors under 18 years old (by showing their I.D. or Passport)
Students from E.U. countries (by showing their University Card)
Escorts of persons with mobility difficulties

Numismatic Museum of Athens
Persons under 19 
Students with (college) ID

Finally, let me draw your attention to two interesting ticket packages that provide very good value for money:
A) The special ticket package (12 Euros / reduced price 6 Euros) which gives you access to the National Archaeological Museum, Byzantine & Christian Museum, Numismatic Museum and Epigraphic Museum
B) The special ticket package for major archaeological sites, meaning:   Acropolis of Athens, North slope of the Acropolis, South Slope of the Acropolis incl. Ancient Theater of Dionysus, Ancient Agora of Athens, Museum of the Ancient Agora, Hadrian's Library, Archaeological Museum of Kerameikos, Kerameikos site, Olympieio (a.k.a. Temple of Olympian Zeus) and the Roman Agora of Athens (Full price 12 Euros / reduced rate: 6 Euros).
Both packages can be purchased on site, at the box office of participating sites or museums.

Beyond museums, there's a ton of activities you may do for free (or almost free) such as visiting local parks and hills, taking a long walk across the coastal promenade, taking the Metro (esp. Line 1) from one end of the line to the other, for a complete cross-section of Athens's urban fabric or simply... walking around! Check out the labels in the right hand column for various ideas.


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