Images from the non-touristy side of Athens (pt.2)

Here's the second installment of photos from "the non-touristy side of Athens", which will sure find some good company with other posts in AthensWalker (such as part 1, here). Consider it a way of saying goodbye to this tumultuous winter season. All of these photos were shot from a terrace in Gyzi neighborhood during a January evening, as a storm was approaching from the west.

The densely built, residential neighborhood of Gyzi with Strefi Hill in the back and southwest Athens further behind.

The neighborhoods of Gyzi and Neapoli with the Acropolis and the Parthenon lit at dusk

Night view from Gyzi / Polygono area to Parko Dikastirion / Pedion Areos / Evelpidon St. with west Athens and Mount Poikilo in the background

Night view of apartment blocks at Gyzi with Tourkovounia hills in the background

Night view of apartment blocks at Gyzi, Athens

Night view of Strefi Hill against the backdrop of southwest Athens; Athens, Greece.

Night view of a street in Gyzi neighborhood, Athens; Athens, Greece

Night view of a street in Gizi neighborhood, Athens; Athens, Greece

Night view of apartments in Gyzi neighborhood, Athens; Athens, Greece

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More light installations! A great one at Psirri.

Following my previous post on the Merchants' Arcade light installation, here is another work sample of the "BeforeLight" group, this time in collaboration with the "Imagine the City" group. I find this one to be much more successful, from a planning / effectiveness point of view, and even more stunning, both visually and as a concept.

Light installation at Pittaki St., Psirri neighbourhood, Athens, Greece

It is located in Psirri neighborhood. Psirri was Athens' major entertainment hub in the 1990's / early 2000s. It took a downward trajectory at the end of that decade due to some safety problems, but has since made a relative comeback. It's no longer "the place to be", but it's an interesting area to go out for a calm, easy-going night out, such as a dinner or a drink, and it's very close (i.e. a few minutes walk) to Monastiraki and Thission which are more popular with locals and tourists these days.

Pittaki St., Psiri neighbourhood, Athens, Greece

This installation has been around since the summer of 2013. A number of old, used, lighting fixtures were hang on top of a narrow, dark alley, that nonetheless was fairly central, connecting the main Ermou St. with the inner part of Psirri. A new street was essentially born this way; one that had been hanging around dark and silent, like a Zombie, now brought to life in a most beautiful way.

Light installation at Pittaki St., Psiri neighborhood, Athens, Greece

 

Light installation at Pittaki St., Psirri neighborhood, Athens, Greece

Pittaki St., Psirri neighbourhood, Athens, Greece

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Gazi: an afternoon walk in Athens' entertainment district

The district of Gazi, about a mile west of Athens city center is nowadays one of the main entertainment / nightlife hubs of Athens. This was initially the site of a gasworks factory (hence the name), planned by a certain French businessman named Francis Feralde in 1857, outside of city borders of the time, and constructed in various phases. It remained in operation in various forms from 1860 till 1984. The area around the factory was a neighborhood of laborers employed in the factory as well as connected businesses, living, even till today, in small, one-floor houses, more reminiscent of a village than a city neighborhood. 

In the last 30 years, a number of events have transformed the area: the closing of the factory, its designation as an historic landmark and subsequent transformation into an exhibition / concert space operated by the City of Athens, the (initial) fall of property prices and subsequent opening of various bars, pubs, restaurants, etc. with various loft apartments and architectural offices joining the party in the last 10-15 years. A major boost was given in 2007 with the opening of the "Kerameikos" Metro Station in the center of the district. Connection with other major pedestrian streets further enhances the area's attractiveness.

Here, I present you some photographs from an afternoon walk a couple of years ago. This is the quiet time of the day at Gazi, before the throngs of party-goers and club-revelers start pouring in...

Persefonis St., Gazi, Athens

An old-time coffee shop at Orfeos St., Gazi, Athens

Tapas bar at Dekeleon St., Gazi, Athens

Lots of abandoned buildings and graffiti, Gazi, Athens

Graffiti for all..., Gazi, Athens

Even more abandoned buildings and graffiti, Gazi, Athens

Entrance of a modern apartment building, Gazi, Athens

Old-timers, chit-chatting and painting the house at the same time, Gazi, Athens

Old, one-store houses and DIY greenery, Gazi, Athens

Bright red house, Gazi, Athens

One of many bars, at Konstantinoupoleos St., Gazi, Athens

Even more space for street art and graffiti, Gazi, Athens

Old lady crossing the railroad tracks [currently not in use], parallel to Konstantinoupoleos St., Gazi, Athens

More bars, at Konstantinoupoleos St., Gazi, Athens

Harley-Davidson Greek Club, at Konstantinoupoleos St., Gazi, Athens

Crossing the railroad tracks [currently not in use], parallel to Konstantinoupoleos St., Gazi, Athens

Entrance of the Kerameikos Metro Station, Gazi/Kerameikos, Athens, Greece

View from inside Kerameikos Metro Station, through a glass roof, to the Athens sky, Gazi/Kerameikos, Athens, Greece

Bar at Sofroniou St., Gazi, Athens

One of the buildings of Technopolis-Gazi in the background, the entrance of the Metro Station in the foreground, Kerameikos-Gazi, Athens, Greece

Buildings of Technopolis-Gazi in the background, with the outer area of Kerameikos Metro Station in the foreground, Kerameikos-Gazi, Athens, Greece

A building of Technopolis-Gazi in the background, with the small square / meeting point at the entrance of Kerameikos Metro Station in the foreground, Kerameikos-Gazi, Athens, Greece

The entrance of Kerameikos Metro Station, on Gazi central square

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Music venues and concert spaces in Athens

I just wrote up a major update on the "upcoming cultural events" in Athens (see tab above) and it dawned on me (what a genius!) that a map featuring all the major music venues in Athens ("concert spaces", "concert halls", "live music spaces", arenas, or whatever they may be called) would be a useful feature to have in this blog. So, here it is: a map of music spaces in Athens (for all kinds of music and types of concerts) and a list of them with a few words about each space. 

An Club

Description: A historic rock'n'roll music "joint" or "dive" or something of that sort, depending on what variation of English you speak. Almost exclusively hosting alternative, indie rock / punk names. For this simple reason, the financial crisis seems to have not touched it, as it features a full schedule of acts for the coming months whereas other music spaces struggle to stay afloat.Address: 13-15 Solomou St., [Exarchia district], Athens

Access: Right next to the rather infamous Exarchia Square, 10 minutes walk from Panepistimio and Omonia Metro Stations.
Website: http://www.anclub.gr/

Athens Concert Hall (Megaron Moussikis) 

Description: Athens' major concert hall, the Megaro Moussikis (which stands for "Music's Mansion"), has been hosting classical music concerts and an expanding array of shows, performances and events for 20+ years now. A rich, deep schedule of events and performances runs all the way from September till May of each year. The Concert Hall's creation was pushed through by late media mogul Dimitris Lambrakis and the" Friends of Music Association, finally to become reality in 1991. Located near Athens city center, at the museum avenue Vassilissis Sophias, in a large, marble mansion, with a Metro Station bearing its name and a newly inaugurated urban park as its garden, this is the major cultural space in Greece. [Update: As of 2014-15 its future is in peril due to serious accumulated debts from past years and the State's inability/unwillingness to fund the arts]

Address: Vassilissis Sophias & Petrou Kokkali St., Athens

Access: Megaro Moussikis Metro Station (Line 3). More info here.

Website:http://www.megaron.gr/

Badminton Theatre 

Description: Built as a temporary construction for the 2004 Olympics to host badminton and other "exotic" sports, it was later converted to an indoor theatre, where one can usually watch traveling musicals and other relevant performances.

Address: Goudi Olympic Properties / Alsos Stratou park [Goudi area], Athens  

Access: 10min walk from Katechaki Metro Station (Line 3)

Website:http://www.badmintontheater.gr/ 

Fuzz Club 

Description: An urban, live-music space hosting interesting international acts of mostly rock and world music. Occasionally big names. 

Address: 209 Pireos St. & 1 Patriarchou Ioakeim St., Tavros [Greater Athens area]

Access: 15min walk from Tavros - Eleftherios Venizelos Metro Station (Line 1)

Website:http://www.fuzzclub.gr/ 

Gagarin 205

Description: An urban space hosting, mostly, rock concerts. Greek and international bands, occasionally big names.

Address: 205 Liossion St., [Odos Liossion / Plateia Attikis area], Athens

Access: 6min walk from Attiki Metro Station (Line 1) 

Website: http://www.gagarin205.gr 

GazArte 

Description: A multi-faceted culture centre / club / bar hosting world music, jazz, blues, sould and funk acts in the noisy, night-life neighborhood of Gazi. You need to make a reservation. Prices can be fairly high.

Address: 32-34 Voutadon St. [Gazi area], Athens

Access: Right outside Kerameikos Metro Station (Line 3)

Website: http://www.gazarte.gr  

Half Note Jazz Club

Description: The name (almost) says it all. A jazz club hosting big names from the international jazz and blues scene as well as up and coming Greek musicians (and established ones - yes, they do exist!). It occasionaly ventures to neighbourhing music genres (ethnic, flamenco, traditional, etc.). It's been in operation since 1979, thus being a virtual staple of Athens night-life. Very reasonable prices.>

Address:17 Trivonianou St., [Mets neighbourhood], Athens. 

Access: 10min. walk from Acropolis Metro Station (Line 2) 

Website: http://www.halfnote.gr/ 

Kyttaro Live

Description: Another historic rock club in operation since for ever (1970 to be exact); it has recently been restored and refurbished trying to make a comeback in the city's rock scene. It's usually punk, rock, garage and other "similar", "underground" types of bands that play here (both Greek and international) but mostly no "big names".

Address: 48 Ipeirou St. & Acharnon St., [Plateia Victorias area], Athens 

Access: 7min walk from Victoria Metro Station (Line 1) or 10min walk from Larissis (a.k.a. Larissa) Metro Station (Line 2)

Website:http://www.kyttarolive.gr 

OAKA Olympic Stadium 

Description: Normally not associated with cultural events (unless you count soccer matches as such) but occasionally hosting big name concerts (of the U2, Rolling Stones, Red Hot Chili Peppers variety). 

Address:OAKA Olympic Complex, Municipality of Maroussi [Greater Athens]

Access: Irini Metro Station (Line 1)

Website:http://www.oaka.com.gr/ 

Onassis Cultural Centre

Description: A recent arrival (Dec. 2010) in Athens' cultural scene, it has quickly become the number two cultural center in the city after the Athens Concert Hall with which it seems to be forming a complementary and co-operative relationship. More geared (but not constrained) to modern art (dance, theatre, exhibitions and music) with major European, Greek and international productions as part of its wide-ranging schedule of events that runs throughout the winter season. The Michelin-star crowned Hytra restaurant has recently opened shop (if I may use the expression) at the roof of the Onassis Cultural Centre.

Address:107-109 Syngrou Avenue, Athens 

Access:Syngrou-Fix Metro Station (Line 3) See here for more info. 

Website: http://www.sgt.gr/en 

PassPort Culture Space

Description: A recently opened music space hosting mostly modern Greek music shows.

Address: 119 Karaiskou St., Piraeus [Greater Athens Area]

Access: By Bus 040(Syntagma Sq.-Piraeus), Bus 500 (Kifissia-Piraeus) and many others (049, 130, 904, 906, A1, B1, E90, X96) at the Dimotiko Theatro (Municipal Theatre) bus stops

Website: http://www.pass-port.com.gr/ Also, see their facebook page.

View Music venues and Concert spaces in Athens, Greece in a larger map

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Athens nightlife: Chilling out at the bars at Panormou St.

If you want to take a full taste of Athens or any other large city for that matter, you should definitely sample some of the night-life offered to you. One of the most popular areas to hangout for students and overall late teens and twenties (mostly but not only) is the so-called "island of Panormou". A small cluster of night-life spots and fast food joints located between Panormou Metro Station and the intersection of Panormou St. and Kifissias Ave. 

Potopoleio and Marabou bars, at 113 Panormou St.

The area got its current character starting 10-15 years ago with a bar called Potopoleio (“Drink-Seller”) whose success has attracted others nearby, making the area a night-life hub for all of Athens.

Potopoleio and Santa Botella bars at 113 and 115 Panormou St.

A fast-food joint (one of many) at Panormou St.

Pedestrian section of Alexandrou Pavli St. - Bars left and right

Tables and chairs at the pedestrianized Alexandrou Pavli St.

The noise from passing traffic gets mixed with the music coming out of the bars and there's a constant motion of people coming in and out, making this a great spot for people-watching. When the weather is fine, tables and chairs from bars and restaurants are laid out in the middle of the street, bringing memories of island vacations to those who have chosen (or not) to stay in town for the summer months.

Tables on Alexandrou Pavli St., from the roof-terrace of Kasbah bar

But the real beauty of the place lies a few meters above. A whole ecosystem of roof-terraces, each one laid at the top of each building (mostly two-storey ones), with nicely decorated summer bars. Each one fun, yet intimate, with small corners and hidden views to nearby buildings or the streets below. The types of music you can mostly hear are rock, pop, latin, jazz, funk, R’n’B, etc. I hope you enjoy it!

Bars on roof-terraces all around the area

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